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Dollars & Sense: Secondhand store fights breast cancer

Call me heartless, but I rarely buy anything from charities unless I want it or need it. I'd rather write a check than be guilted into buying more magazines or candles. I apply the same standard when I go into nonprofit surplus or thrift shops. I don't buy something I don't need just to "make a contribution."

Apparently, I'm not the only one who shops that way. When Barbara Hensley of Shakopee opened the Hope Chest resale shop in Orono, she envisioned "excellent quality at excellent prices for an excellent cause." Quality first. And Hensley's mantra comes through loud and clear.

The soft lighting, exquisite groupings of furniture donated from the International Market Square ASID sample sale, and racks with merchandise including St. John Knit separates priced between $150 and $300 tell shoppers this is no "thrift shop."

Customers seem to agree. Shopping the Hope Chest for the first time several weeks ago, Paulette Salo of Plymouth liked the shop even before she realized it was a nonprofit. "That was icing on the cake," she said.

The way Hensley sees it, she can raise more money for breast cancer at a faster pace selling one Sherrill sofa for $1,000 (marked $3,000 at the IMS sample sale) than selling 100 Mossimo sweaters for $10 each.

No shrinking violet, Hensley, 55, left her job as vice president of product management at Ceridian in 2001 after both of her sisters died of breast cancer. Patsy died at age 42 in 1994 and Kathy at age 52 in 1996. Hensley saw her own future and had a preventive bilateral mastectomy in 1996.

By 2001, Hensley decided it was time to "make a lot of money for breast cancer." She created the idea of a series of Hope Chest resale shops as a tribute to her sisters. She wants to raise $10 million by opening 50 Hope Chest stores nationwide in the next five years. The Orono store opened a year ago and a second store in the St. Paul suburbs is planned for early next year.

Making it happen

The Orono store is already 22 percent ahead of plan. Although Hensley owns it and will own the St. Paul store, she doesn't expect other owners to run their stores just for the cause. "I want the owners to be able to make a decent living," she said, "or they'll burn out too quickly." Still, Hensley calls them "social entrepreneurs."

Of the five or six workers in the Orono store during business hours, generally only one is paid. The rest are volunteers. After the business model is in effect, Hensley hopes that 60 to 70 percent of proceeds will pass through to the foundation. The rest would go to the store owner.

It's a win-win situation for breast cancer research and upscale bargain shoppers. Barbara Danielsen of Little Canada drives nearly 30 miles every three weeks to get her hair cut in Wayzata and always stops at the Hope Chest. On a recent trip she picked up new garden gloves for $5 marked $28 on the Frost and Budd price tag, and lined wicker baskets for $14 that sold for $48 at Frost and Budd.

"I spend about $300 to $400 per trip," Danielsen said. "I never leave empty-handed." Danielsen likes the furniture, jewelry and household accessories, but loves the quality of the merchandise. "It's consistently good," she said.

It's evident in the selection. Alouette decorator pillows that a local designer said would easily sell for $150 in specialty shops are only $35. I spied item after item that made me compare the Hope Chest's clothing and furniture to the best consignment shops in the Twin Cities -- a black lacquer china cabinet for $175, a National Mount Airy maple desk with marble top for $295, an Ellen Tracy suit for $175, Madame Alexander dolls for $40 to $60 each, and a set of Theodore Haviland Limoges china for about $765. There is also a great assortment of new items donated by Frost & Budd and Van Gogh's Daughter, Wayzata stores that have closed.

How about those prices?

Thrift store shoppers may balk at some of the prices. A maple china cabinet for $595 may seem pricey for the bargain hunter accustomed to Goodwill's prices, but the new piece was $1,700 at IMS' sample sale. "You're not going to find an Ellen Tracy jacket for $5 here, but you might find one for $25," Hensley said. Generally, the prices are one-fourth to half of the retail price, Hensley said. And many of those items are new -- donated from local retailers. Other items in nearly new condition are donations from locals. Only the cream of the crop is placed on the floor.

Some resale or consignment stores play loosely with their standards. "Nothing below Liz Claiborne in quality," they say, and the racks sport Mossimo, No Boundaries and Route 66 and other discounters' brands. I suspect consignment stores take in the discounters' clothes when the racks get thin. Hope Chest seems to have the same standard, but I didn't notice any obvious slips through the cracks. There is a list of accepted designers posted in the store and on the Web site.

More about Hope Chest

Location: 3850 Shoreline Dr., Orono; 952-471-8700 or http//www.hopechestforbreastcancer.org .

Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays, except until 7 p.m. Thursdays, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturdays and noon to 4 p.m. Sundays.

What you'll find: New and used high-end furniture and knickknacks, antiques, collectibles, furs, and women's designer clothing and accessories at about 50 to 75 percent off retail prices. Other items include greeting cards, teas, soups and books for those fighting breast cancer. High-end party or Sunday kids' clothing is accepted. No menswear.

Donations: Items in new or nearly new condition may be dropped off during business hours. Women's items must be designer or bridge. Furniture must be in mint condition. Donors get a tax receipt.

Recent finds: New wedding dresses donated by a local retailer are $250 to $350 (originally $550 to $600), an Escada silk blouse is $70 with the original price tag of $720 still attached, a new Clayton Marcus sofa is $455 and a contrasting chair is $295 new, donated from the IMS.

Markdowns: Clothing is marked down at the end of the season, usually in March and August. Furniture and accessories do not usually get additional markdowns. Prices on furniture and accessories are firm.

Upcoming party/warehouse sale: A black-tie and blue jeans party is Nov. 20 from 7 to 11 p.m. Tickets are $50 per person for food, drink, music and shopping. Additional donations of items not in the store will be at the warehouse sale. The event will be at the Hope Chest warehouse (not the store), 16120 County Rd. 6, Plymouth, 952-470-0755. Entrance to the warehouse sale is free Nov. 21 and 22.

John Ewoldt may be contacted at jewoldt@startribune.com, at 612-673-7633 or by sending a fax to 612-673-4359. His articles are online at http://www.startribune.com/dollars.